Mrs Bowden’s top tip – coloured tailor’s tacks
Shelf Bust dress – creating the pleated bust
Occasionally you can come across different sized circles on a commercial pattern to differentiate areas on the garment being made. You will often see this when pleats or tucks are being created. I am presently working on Butterick 5882 by Gertie, a reproduction pattern inspired by 1950’s ‘Shelf bust’ dresses.
A shelf bust accentuates the upper bust line by incorporating a pleated or ruched layer of fabric – this line is often emphasised by strapping or banding between the lower bodice and insert.
Or in the case of this polka dot beauty, additional beading!
The insert has to be carefully prepared to fit – hence the numerous pleat lines indicated on the pattern.
This is made all the more confusing when working on a multi-size pattern such as this.
Matching the tailor’s tacks allows the pleats to be formed and there is a direction to follow to cause the folds to flow in the same direction. Note that irrespective of the size being created the placement lines are the same on the centre front line – they sizing changes at the side only. This leads to my top tip.
Use different coloured threads to mark the big circles and little circles.
It should speed up the process of creating the pleats and cause less confusion as to the placement lines.
In stitches, Amanda xxx