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Mrs Bowden’s top tip – hem preparation

Mrs Bowden’s top tip – hem preparation

Mrs Bowden’s top tip – hem preparation
If you have been to my classroom recently you may have noticed a rather nice triple pure wool crepe 1950’s coat on the stand.  It has been there for some time…….
Here are a few close ups of the coat showing the underlay in the hall before carpeting and the back inverted pleat with holding stitches.
I included this photograph of the toile I made before going to the fashion fabric as it shows the beautiful seam and pocket detail on the coat.

The only thing I need to do is the hem and stitch on the fasteners!

This week is a few tips  regarding hem preparation.  This is a jolly good illustration that shows the key points beautifully.

1. Always let the garment hang for a few days (or months in my case!) so that any drop in the fabric happens before levelling off the fabric.

2. Put your coat on and find a beautiful assistant to mark the finished coat length from the floor up – DO NOT be tempted to lay the garment on a table and mark from the waist down.  The fitting and figure of the wearer can alter how the hem hangs.

3. Mark with pins.  Take the coat off and mark with a thread tack.

4. Trim, for a coat the hem turning should be around 5 cm to 6 cm.  Then finish the edge; hong kong finishing, overcast, overlocked – whatever is appropriate for your fabric.

5.  If your fabric is bulky trim away the seam allowance in the hem so that when it is turned up the seam is graded causing less ‘sponginess’ in this area.

Here I am now thinking of putting my money where my mouth is and actually getting the coat finished!!

Until next time,

in stitches,

Mrs Bowden x

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