Mrs Bowden’s top tips – fitting systems

1. Tissue Fitting

You can pin the tissue together using the standard seam allowance.  It isn’t necessary to pin on facings, linings and decorative features as this is purely to see if the outer shell fits you.  You can then mark the tissue where modifications need to be made.

*  quick and a good way of testing bust/waist/hip fitting.

Disadvantage;
*  tissue does not drape and so does not have the qualities of the fashion fabric being used for the garment – this can greatly affect the fit and look of the finished piece.

*  Unless it’s an asymmetrical garment you will only get half a garment to fit.  This makes it difficult to ascertain ‘stress’ areas which are typically over the bustline or abdomen.

*  tissue is very fragile and can tear easily.

2.  Toile fitting

You can also create a toile of the garment.   This is pronounced TWARLL.   A toile is a protoype made in a fabric with similar qualities but less expensive than the final fashion fabric.  However, there is also a fabric called Toile du Joy.  Toile comes from the French for a “linen cloth” or “canvas” for painting on, hence why toiles are often made in cheap calico to test.

Advantages;

*  Very accurate representation of the final garment which is easy to mark for modifications.
*  Allows the maker to ‘test run’ any constructions techniques or sample different finishing techniques.
*  Position of design features such as pockets can be placed, seen and checked.
*  You can decide if you actually like the garment before making it up in expensive fabric.

Disadvantages;

*  Can be time consuming to make and adds an additional cost.

3.  Tack fashion fabric