New York Pattern 1942 and Simplicity 1319
In the run up to Christmas I was overtaken by festive enthusiasm and bought 3 lengths of fabric suitable for Christmas frocks. The one featured here is a 100% viscose with a bit of a 30’s vibe showing almost Disneyish bambi’s set amongst pastel geometric shapes and grids. Having always admired the novelty prints used in clothing from the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s I dug out a pattern I bought a few seasons ago and decided to run up this little treasure from ‘New York Pattern’ circa: 1940’s. I then stumbled on a wonderful piece of duck egg blue pure wool in a charity shop which had been moth nibbled but still enough fabric to cut out a cheeky bolero using Simplicity’s repro pattern number 1319.
If you are used to using vintage patterns you won’t find the lack of printing on the tissues alarming – the way to proceed is to mark each perforation with a tailor tack and you can then orientate yourself to the written instructions for constructing the garment. In respect of the changes I made they are as follows;
I went for the long straight sleeve but added a bias vent finished with bias binding and a hand sewn button loop. I did this for two reasons. I prefer a tighter cuff as it doesn’t get in the way of day to day life and also I think it gives a more sympathetic line to the sleeve. I may well make this dress again with the short flowing sleeve for a summer frock.
I also prefer a more sturdy belt as opposed to a sash and bow as suggested in the pattern. I hope you admire the gorgeous 1930s plastic buckle I used from the extensive buckle stash – I couldn’t believe the colour match.
Now to the neckline – I first cut the pattern with the high neckline and when I tried it on I felt like a cruise liner in full sail with fabric billowing over my not unsubstantial chest – recut. I took it down – tried it again – lower, lower. So here is the preferred neck line awaiting bias binding to finish.
Onto the bolero – it really is thrilling when a plan comes together and I had just enough of the dress fabric to line my little bolero. This is too cute and fits like a dream with lovely shaping achieved by plenty of darts at the back neck front shoulder and elbow. Careful steaming is required to roll the collar over and I switched the direction of my stab stitching at the collar break point instead of understitching as advised in the pattern. I felt a hard line of stitching on the inside facing wouldn’t be a sympathetic finish. I have yet to finish the sleeve lining but will endeavour to finish that soon. You may also notice that I didn’t add the false pocket bands – having put them on in the first place I felt the balance of the garment was compromised by them being too close to the hem and looking slightly clumsy – not to my taste!
I’m so excited at the prospect of wearing my new outfit – I think it’s going out tomorrow night to a swing dance Stratford Stomp hosted by www.cactuspromotions.co.uk
Hope you have enjoyed this wee post and do leave a comment.